The Ban Bus

But away from the dollars and cents and back to the people..

Greeks really are animal lovers. In the din of road noise and shattered bearings in the fans I could not sleep. Standing in the dark gazing out the window I see another act of animal kindness. A woman walked down the back lane in the middle of the night oblivious to my presence and has a big bag of something. It ends up being cat food as no sooner did she appear then a few local strays turned up. She had little bowls in hidey holes about the place and was putting a handful of food in each. The cats stroked her legs and tucked in for a midnight snack as she wandered off to another secret rendezvous. I followed her only a few metres and there she resupplies another secret stash. It’s just another tiny piece of the jigsaw that makes me feel that there is a huge social conscience here and getting public pressure against cluster bombs is possible.

The morning comes and I have one more engagement at the University of Macedonia. A Professor there has invited me to talk to her international relations course. We battle the traffic to the University and get out of the taxi. I find a guard and ask him where room 7 is and he looks at my note and says, “Not here, this is Aristotle University”. The taxi driver has taken us to the wrong University. Panic sets in as there is only 20 minutes till I’m to talk. Luckily the right university is close so we run off down the street to the right place. In the front door and I ask a student where room 7 is. No idea is the reply. We ask a few more till finally someone has an idea and we head to the 3rd floor. Asking more people we are finally directed to a small theatre with a 7 on the door, made it with a few minutes to spare. Daniel has come down with a very nasty flu and is looking like a mercy killing will be the best option. We wait as there is still a lecture inside. A few students arrive and hang about the corridor too. The lecture runs over time till I start to feel a little uneasy. I ask a student if this is the international relations class of Mrs Perraki. She says no. More panic! I’d been sent to theatre 7, not room 7.

We head off again with Daniel constantly blowing his nose on toilet paper. He is starting to sound like a horn chorus in a British Hunt Club. “On On, Honk Honk!” A door is ajar and a guy sitting and writing.

“Excuse me, do you speak English?”
“Of course.”
“Can you tell me where Mrs Perraki is and her international relations class.”
“Yes, Mrs Perraki is upstairs, please come with me.”

Off we go to the next floor and the offices of other professors. Mrs Perraki’s door is locked.

“She must be in class, room 7 did you say?”
We head off again as Daniel strikes the chorus at the rear till finally we arrive at room 7.

Mrs Perraki’s face lights up as her guest lecturer enters all sweaty and flustered.

“Very sorry for the late arrival” and start to pull out the data projector and computer. I launch into the talk as everything is starting up. This is an international university where the working language is English so there are no language barriers here.

After one computer data projector snag I am in full flight and alls going well. The students are quite taken aback particularly when we talk about Greece having cluster bombs for defence. “That means, you will use them on your own soil”. Their faces drop and an outraged feel runs through the room. We certainly have converts to the cause here. Mrs Perraki is going to stay engaged and teach the lessons of the CMC and ICBL in her future courses. We will connect her to the campaign and feed her as much relevant information as possible. She is an International Humanitarian Law Lawyer who is now a professor and a long time member of Amnesty International. She definitely has a social conscience and wants to challenge her students to make a difference, not just a salary.

We head back to the hotel and Davor has driven back to pick us up. Daniel is a ball of sweat and snot and rapidly falls asleep on the back seat for our four hour drive to the border with Turkey. At least that stops him coughing and sneezing.

We drive and chat till we arrive in Alexandroupolis and Davor is making cryptic jokes about the hotel. “Hotel Panorama, maybe because it’s in a panorama, a view, of not the sea,” says Davor. We drive on till we need to turn left and there is no way as all places have no U turn signs. There is a set of lights and the police have a speed trap there working the opposite direction. We pull up at the lights, wait for the green arrow and make the turn up the side road. When we get to the top of the hill we turn around and drive back to the lights to make the turn in the direction we want. The police wave us over immediately and a young sergeant comes up.

“Where are you from?” he asks. “Aren’t the road signs the same in your country?”

We answer and say many are the same. He walks Davor off to point at the road. Daniel and I have no idea what he is on about. They come back and he inspects the vehicle papers. Davor is trying to soften him up and explains what we are about.

“Hey guy, we are doing humanitarian work and you and me are brothers, come on, let us go” he says.

The officer walks around the Bus and reads the signs. He finally cracks a smile when Davor shows him the spelling mistakes and the little bits of extra magnetic signage that we corrected the mistakes with.

“Ok,” says Davor, “now you must sign out petition.” He grins and waves us on.

“Only because you do important work,” his words fade as we drive away.

Mette has had good meetings in Alexandroupolis and although there are no presentations to do there are some excellent contacts made. These will pay off in the future as we focus more attention on Greece and the region. Turkey tomorrow and the whole new country game starts again.

On checkout, Mette logged onto her bank and the money was paid in at last. It had taken 18 days. There had been a screw up somewhere in the bank and as soon as the money was paid from London to Mette’s account in Norway it was bounced straight back to London. Of course the wonder of banking customer service means they wouldn’t dream of telling you there was a problem now would they. There used to be an ad in Australia for a bank that finished with “We never forget it’s your money” but they forget to add “And we have it now, not you!”

Media advisory

Epic expedition arrives in Bucharest

WHAT: Visit to Romania by The Ban Bus: An eight-week campaign trail through Europe to convince all governments to sign a groundbreaking treaty banning cluster bombs, in Oslo on December 3rd 2008. Beginning in Serbia and ending at the signing ceremony in Norway, the Ban Bus will rally public support for the treaty and turn the eyes of the world on governments – including Romania - who are resisting putting pen to paper and curbing the suffering of millions.

Using sound, film and photo recording equipment, the Ban Bus will be recording its journey, collecting stories and generating a media storm in a bid to get every government to do the right thing and sign the treaty.

WHEN: Tuesday 21st October: 10 am: Official Ban Bus Media Conference, Public Forum and Petition Signing: Following the media conference campaigners, using a mobile photo exhibition, specially developed flyers and “The People’s Treaty” will host a public forum to educate residents about this vital issue and Romania’s unique opportunity to help save innocent lives around the world. A film highlighting the humanitarian effects of cluster munitions will also be screened.

WHERE: Photo and filming opportunity - Romania: The Media Conference and Public Forum will take place at the University of Bucharest, Bd. M. Kog?lniceanu 36-46 Sector 5, cod 050107, Bucure?ti.

WHO:
• Ban Bus campaigners on the bus:
John Rodsted: Nobel-prize winning photographer and film maker with twenty years experience documenting cluster bombs worldwide

Daniel Barty: Award winning Journalist and campaigner who has worked with survivors in Asia

Romanian Campaigner: Claudia Iatan

CONTACT:

In Romania and on the bus: Daniel Barty, +381 (0)61 233 1169, media (at) thebanbus.org
In Romania: Claudia Iatan: +40 724 759 986, mc_cla (at) yahoo.com

Media release
21st November. The Royal Norwegian Embassy together with FOND, PATRIR and Red Cross Romania have organized today, at the Law Faculty in Bucharest, an information event on the occasion of an international advocacy and awareness raising campaign against the use of the cluster bombs « THE BAN BUS TOUR ». The Ban Bus is an advocacy initiative striving to achieve a ban on cluster bombs by the end of 2008, during an 8 week tour through European cities. The main speakers during the event were Mr. Øystein Hovdkinn, the Ambassador of Norway to Romania, the Ban Bus representatives, UN Information Centre Bucharest and Red Cross Romania representatives.
The final objective of the initiative - The Ban Bus Tour - is to convince as many European states as possible to sign the Convention on Cluster Munitions, when it will be ready for signing on the 3rd December 2008 in Oslo, Norway. Romania is being challenged to be a leader the world’s fight to help save innocent lives, with the arrival in the country of The Ban Bus. At the end of the trip, The Ban Bus Europe would have been passed through the following countries: Serbia, Macedonia, Greece, Turkey, Romania, Bulgaria, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Slovenia, Italy, Switzerland, Germany, Slovakia, Czech Republic, Poland, Lithuania, Leetonia, Estonia, Finland, Sweden and Norway.

Setting out from Belgrade at the beginning of October The Ban Bus is travelling 10 thousand kilometres through Europe and will arrive in Oslo to coincide with the signing of the world’s most significant disarmament and humanitarian treaty in more than a decade, in December. Already the team on board has met with Cluster Munition survivors, politicians, community leaders and residents of numerous countries in the region.

The Convention on Cluster Munitions will outlaw these horrific weapons and ultimately reduce the suffering of innocent men, women and children.

Once fired, cluster bombs break open in flight and spray numerous smaller submunitions, or bomblets, making them highly inaccurate. Even civilians not killed or maimed in the attack are still at risk from cluster bombs, because in many cases the submunitions fail to detonate and explode later when they are accidently disturbed.

It’s estimated one third of the world’s cluster bomb victims are children. So far more than 100 of the world’s governments have agreed to sign the treaty in December. As The Ban Bus rolls into Bucharest, we trust that the government will decide to sign the treaty with the other countries during the ceremony on 3 December in Oslo.

As a veteran photojournalist and long time campaigner, Ban Bus co-founder John Rodsted has seen the horror of these weapons across the globe, “It makes me angry that a handful of governments are putting this weapon ahead of the lives of ordinary people, the government of Romania has a chance to make the world a safer place for innocent men, women and children and they need to do the right thing now.”

“We have found that many governments are willing to listen to their populations on this, some countries that wouldn’t support the ban initially are now supporters purely because of public pressure and hopefully our visit to Romania will show the politicians here that people want them to step-up and help save innocent lives,” he says.

John’s partner on this trip, Mette Eliseussen, has also seen the effects of these weapons on the ground, “Cluster bombs don’t discriminate, they kill and maim the innocent wherever they’re used, many governments are now saying enough is enough and Romania needs to join that long and growing list of nations.”

“Currently Romania is listed as a producer and stockpiler of cluster bombs and that is a situation we should all be trying to change. These weapons have a terrible history of killing and injuring the innocent and now is the time for us to sign the treaty and condemn cluster munitions to history,” says Romanian Campaigner, Claudia Iatan.

MEDIA OPPORTUNITIES

- 1000 am, Tuesday 21st October: Ban Bus Media Conference, Film Screening and Public Forum: University of Bucharest, Bd. M. Kog?lniceanu 36-46 Sector 5, cod 050107, Bucure?ti

CONTACTS:

In Romania and on the bus: Daniel Barty, +381 61 233 1169, media (at) hebanbus.org
In Romania: Claudia Iatan, Event Coordinator: +40 724 759 986, mc_cla (at) yahoo.com
Monica Popa, The Royal Norwegian Embassy, tel: + 40 722 656 018, mopa (at) mfa.no

COMUNICAT DE PRESA

21 noiembrie 2008. Ambasada Norvegiei la Bucuresti, cu sprijinul FOND, PATRIR si Crucea Rosie Romania au organizat astazi, la sediul Facultatii de Drept din Bucuresti, un eveniment de informare publicå in cadrul campaniei interna?ionale de advocacy « THE BAN BUS TOUR », The Ban Bus Europe este o ini?iativ? de advocacy, ce presupune un tur rutier prin ora?ele europene timp de 8 s?pt?mâni cu scopul de a sensibiliza opinia public? ?i media în leg?tura cu interzicerea bombelor cu defragmentare. Au luat cuvantul in cadrul evenimentului Dl. Øystein Hovdkinn, Ambasadorul Norvegiei la Bucuresti, reprezentan?ii campaniei de advocacy The Ban Bus, reprezentanti ai Centrului de Informare UN si ai Crucii Rosii Romania.

Obiectivul final al acestei inti?iative - The Ban Bus Tour - este de a convinge cât mai multe state europene de a semna Conven?ia privind Muni?iile Cluster, când va fi disponibil? pentru a fi semnat?, mai exact la 3 decembrie 2008 în Oslo, Norvegia. Romania este chemata sa dea exemplu in demersul global de a salva vieti nevinovate, o data cu sosirea pe teritoriul tarii a campaniei The Ban Bus.

Plecand de la Belgrad la inceputul lui octombrie, The Ban Bus parcurge aproximativ 10.000 de km prin Europa si va ajunge in decembrie la Oslo in acelasi timp cu desfasurarea unui eveniment deosebit: semnarea celui mai important tratat umanitar si de dezarmare din ultimul deceniu. The Ban Bus Europe este conceput ca ?i o construc?ie suport ce vine în sprijinul interzicerii totale a bombelor cluster. În strâns? colaborare cu Coali?ia privind Muni?iile Cluser (CMC), The Ban Bus Europe une?te persoanele de contact existente în acest? campanie cu alte persoane noi din ??ri-cheie din Balcani sau din statele baltice. Reprezentantii campaniei s-au intalnit deja cu supravietuitori ale atacurilor cu bombe cu defragmentare, politicieni, leaderi de opinie si cetateni ale nenumaratelor tari din regiune.

La sfarsitul calatoriei, The Ban Bus Europe va fi trecut prin urmatoarele tari: Serbia, Macedonia, Grecia, Turcia, România, Bulgaria, Bosnia ?i Her?egovina, Croa?ia, Slovenia, Italia, Elve?ia, Germania, Slovacia, Cehia, Polonia, Lituania, Letonia, Estonia, Fiinlanda, Suedia, ?i Norvegia

Conventia impotriva Bombelor cu Defragmentare (The Convention on Cluster Munition) incearca sa scoata in afara legii utilizarea acestor bombe ingrozitoare si sa reduca astfel suferinta a nenumarate persoane nevinovate.

Odata detonate, bombele cu defragmentare se deschid in aer si se impart in nenumarate submunitii mult mai mici numite „bombe de calibru mic” si aterizeaza la voia intamplarii. Civilii care nu au fost ucisi in timpul atacului sunt inca in mare pericol pentru ca aceste bombe de calibru mic pot exploda mai tarziu daca sunt atinse din greseala.

Este estimat ca o treime dintre victimele bombelor cu defragmentare la nivel global sunt copiii si in ciudat acestei statistici. Pana acum, mai mult de 100 de tari au fost de acord sa semneze tratatul in decembrie. « The Ban Bus » este acum in Bucuresti si speram ca guvernul roman sa accepte semnarea acestui tratat in data de 3 decembrie 2008 la Oslo, alaturi de celelalte tari semnatare.

Ca si fotojurnalist veteran si campaigner pentru multi ani la rand, co-fondatorul The Ban Bus, John Rodsted a vazut multe dintre ororile lasate in urma de catre aceste arme: “Ma supara faptul ca aceste state pun aceste bombe inaintea vietilor oamenilor de rand. Guvernul Roman are posibilitatea sa schimbe acest lucru si sa faca aceasta lume mai sigura pentru femei, copii si barbati si trebuie sa faca ceea ce este corect acum!”

“Am descoperit ca multe guverne sunt dispuse sa poarte un dialog cu populatia referitor la acest subiect, ca altele, desi la inceput nu ne-au sustinut initiativa sunt acum suporteri datorita presiunii publice. Speram ca vizita in Romania sa arate policienilor ca romanii vor sa faca ceva in acest sens si sa salveze vieti nevinovate”, a mai adaugat el.

Partenerul lui John in aceasta calatorie, Mette Eliseussen, a vazut si ea efectele acestor bombe odata ajunse la sol, “Bombele cu defragmentare nu discrimineaza, ele omoara prea multi oameni nevinovati, multe guverne spun ca acest lucru trebuie sa ia sfarsit, iar Romania trebuie sa se alature listei lungi de state care vor semna tratatul.”

“In acest moment Romania produce si depoziteaza bombe cu defragmentare si trebuie sa schimbam aceasta situatie. Aceste arme au ucis si ranit prea multi oameni nevinovati de-a lungul timpului. Acum este momentul sa semnam acest tratat si sa facem din bombele cu defragmentare un subiect al trecutului”, spune Claudia Iatan, reprezentantul campaniei in Romania.

OPORTUNITATI MEDIA

Marti 21 Octombrie
ORA: 10.00 am : Conferinta Media Ban Bus, Proiectie de film si Forum Public
Facultatea De Drept, Blvd. M. kogalniceanu 36-46, Sector 5, Bucuresti

PERSOANE DE CONTACT:

In Romania si in autobuz: Daniel Barty, +381 61 233 1169, media (at) thebanbus.org
In Romania: Claudia Iatan: +40 724 759 986, mc_cla (at) yahoo.com

Link-uri utile:
www.stopclustermunitions.org , http://thebanbus.org/

The road out of Alexandroupolis is easy with good signage to the border. On the edge of town we try to fill with fuel and find they are putting industrial diesel into the van and not super grade diesel.

“Stop” says Davor. “Pull it out, this is no good. Where is other gas station?”

The dodgy Joe pump monkey avoids eye contact and suggests there either isn’t one or he doesn’t know.

“Bullshit, let’s go, oh, can’t pay with credit card, of course not.”

As soon as we pulled onto the highway we spot a few other gas station signs up ahead. The service is different in the BP with a young guy who was studying and spoke excellent English. He couldn’t have been more helpful if he tried.

The highway led us to the inevitable border crossings. First we had to get out of Greece. This normally is not too hard as they are happy to see you go. We passed this point quickly. As we drove slowly across no mans land we chanted to each other “You must pay! You must pay!” It was beginning to become a joke as to who would be messed about the most, Canadian, Norwegian or Australian. We pulled up at the border and handed over the documents. The official immediately began to paw through mine with great interest. I’m starting to feel like some kind of exotic species. After awhile, he passed them back and said “You must pay!” Mette as a Norwegian was stung with a bill for 20 euro. Daniel and me paid 15 euro each as Australians where Davor hit the jackpot with his Canadian passport at 45 euros. Try and work that sliding scale out for visas, we can’t. The paper chase began. Davor headed off with our passports to an office and paid the money then walked back to the window we had begun at. When he returned he said we all needed to be seen back at that window. Off we went with passports in hand and I passed mine through the window.

“You look like a German” he said to me.
“And you look like an Australian to me” say I.

He laughs and tried to make a joke about New Zealanders and the Haka. I stare dumbly back at him. That rained on his BBQ. He stamps my passport and processes the rest. We go back to the car and feel all is done so drive to the exit barrier.

“No no, number 2, number 2,” says the official pointing at us. Now I could do my old border party trick here and give him a number 2 but Davor decides we are a stamp short and backs the car back into no mans land. What the hell was number 2? We had passed a lazy official in another booth as we drove in and I walked around the back and saw it had a number 2 over it. I hand him my passport and he asks for more and I have no idea what he wants. I start looking about his desk and figure it’s something to do with the car. He needs to process it into Turkey.

Davor comes back with the papers and soon we have an extra stamp. Back in the car and back to the exit. Our official here is finally satisfied and raises the boom. Another border bites the dust. We are on our way to Istanbul.

A few lyrics roll around my head “Take me back to Constantinople, no you can’t go back to Constantinople now it’s Istanbul not Constantinople now in this city nothing ever works, that’s no bodies business but the Turks……”

The drive into Turkey does seem different to being in Greece and it’s not just because of the ever present minarets spiking out of the towns. There is something else and I can’t put my finger on it as for all intensive purposes there is not much to distinguish it from Europe.

Driving into Istanbul is a nightmare at the best of times. Driving in peak hour traffic is no task for the faint hearted. But driving into Istanbul at peak hour with no maps, an insane GPS and an inaccurate address for the hotel makes for a colourful end to the day. We have absolutely no idea where the hotel is, central or suburban, no idea. The only thing we do know is it’s near a place called Taksim Square. Just as we left Alexandroupoli I found an aerial photo of Taksim Square but couldn’t pull back to get the proper location. I could see about a one square km area and the hotel was marked there in the NE corner of the square. At least this might help if we got close.

The traffic was very heavy and staying in a lane seems to be an alien concept here. If there are four lanes then why not go eight or nine across the highway and exiting is easy too, just spin the wheel and go for it. What could possibly go wrong? As far as we were concerned, under these circumstances, quite a lot could end up in the shape of a pear. Davor drove on valiantly, dodging many a near miss. The GPS babbled aimlessly and we wondered how we were to find this mythical square till Davor swung into a truck stop to ask the drivers. Truck drivers are the font of all road knowledge all over the world and although there was no common language they were happy to help.

The drivers arm cuts the air, ‘that way, that way,’ fingers came up, ‘three km or so,’ arm slashes right, ‘exit right,’ fingers to eyes then point up,’ look for the signs. Pointing up the driver said “Taksim, Taksim”. Look for the signs from there. On the road again.

The directions were good and after a few more than said km’s we exited at a sign marked to Taksim. The traffic became crazier and denser and a few more stops to ask confirmed we were on the right road. The feeling we were close swelled over us and I turned my computer on to find the aerial photo.

Trees on our left, maybe, and a roundabout with double lane road each side and one feeding off to our left, the feeling of Déjà Vu crept over us. A Metro sign flashed by, ‘Taksim’, we had made it! Damn it, we hadn’t as we were flushed in the one way system and right out the other side again into traffic carnage and the heart of a city that never stops. So near but yet, so far. We needed to do a U turn and do one fast before we were dragged across the river and the game begins again.

Davor finds a gap in the central fence and swings us about into the path of the opposite traffic mayhem. It worked and we were heading back in the right direction. Daniel was in the front so he was thrust my computer and he had to get us to the hotel. Failure would have meant certain death for him so a rare mental focus came over his countenance. The traffic was nasty with mystery number of lanes heading into one and turning left. A crescendo of horns belched forth from the mobile symphonies brass section as we tried for top right corner of the square. Davor was a man possessed as he jammed and squeezed the Ban Bus on and on till finally just ahead we could see a small sign, ‘Gezi Hotel’. We had made it.

Epic expedition arrives in Istanbul

WHAT: Visit to Turkey by The Ban Bus: An eight-week campaign trail through Europe to convince all governments to sign a groundbreaking treaty banning cluster bombs, in Oslo on December 3rd 2008. Beginning in Serbia and ending at the signing ceremony in Norway, the Ban Bus will rally public support for the treaty and turn the eyes of the world on governments – including Turkey - who are resisting putting pen to paper and curbing the suffering of millions.

Using sound, film and photo recording equipment, the Ban Bus will be recording its journey, collecting stories and generating a media storm in a bid to get every government to do the right thing and sign the treaty.

WHEN: Saturday 18th October: 12 pm: Official Media Conference and Ban Bus Public Street Action: Following the media conference campaigners, using a mobile photo exhibition, specially developed flyers and “The People’s Treaty” will begin educating residents about this vital issue and Turkey’s unique opportunity to help save innocent lives around the world.

WHERE: Photo and filming opportunity - Istanbul: Ban Bus Media Conference and Public Action will take place at Taksim Square, Istanbul.

WHO:

· Ban Bus campaigners on the bus:

John Rodsted: Nobel-prize winning photographer and film maker with twenty years experience documenting cluster bombs worldwide

Daniel Barty: Journalist and campaigner who has worked with survivors in Asia

CONTACT:

In Turkey and on the bus: Daniel Barty, +381 (0)61 233 1169, media (at) thebanbus.org

In Turkey: Muteber Ö?reten, Initiative for a Mine Free Turkey + 90 535 229 38 28

In London: Natalie Curtis, Cluster Munition Coalition: +44 (0)20 7820 0222 or + 44 (0) 7515 575174, Natalie (at) stopclustermunitions.org

We roll out of town and head north to Thessaloniki. We hope we are going to be able to speak at the university there but still we have no confirmation of this. After the days in Athens it’s just reinforced my opinion of what a tragedy it would be if Greece used cluster bombs in their own self defence. They really would become the authors of their own nightmare.

It’s a sunny day, but then again, it’s always a sunny day in Greece. The olive groves pass us by and some beautiful rocky range is crossed capped with what looks like an old Crusader Castle. Maybe so, maybe not but it certainly looks nice as we drive north. We are heading back to the area around Katarini to consolidate our plan. In fact, we don’t actually have a plan for the day and that is our problem. We have a contact with a teacher at the University in Thessaloniki who is an Amnesty member and is trying to get a core of students together for us to talk to. This seems to be proving more of an obstacle than anticipated as we are in the middle of the student’s exam period. The kilometres roll on by and still we don’t know if we are to do something this afternoon.

Lunch breaks the trip and a small coastal town is found with good cheap calamari and we weigh our options. Mette wants to get a photo of our ‘Ban Cluster Bombs Now’ banner where ever we go and is annoyed we didn’t get one at the Acropolis these last few days so we start to look at our options to get an iconically Greek photo. There is nothing worse than a whining Norwegian as they go on and on and on a bit more. Mount Olympus or any number of Greek ruins along the way till finally she will be satisfied with something ruined with many Greek flags about. Now we are blessed with some silence and can work out what we will try and do this afternoon.

The contact in Thessaloniki finally gets back to us but is unable to get enough students together to make a full presentation so suggests we meet for a beer and a meal tonight. That sounds like a practical compromise and we move on into town in search of a hotel.

Still we are having major navigational problems and we want to sort out our GPS and did some research last night to dealers of GPS software. This proves to be harder than you would imagine. The Greece GPS dealers only have Greek software and maps. They do not stock any full European software or Turkish. This is of no use at all. Mette calls the GPS head office in America in an attempt to sort this out. She gets ‘friendly service’ but everything she is told is wrong and none of the phone numbers for European dealers work so its back to trawling the internet for answers.

There is a number for a dealer in Istanbul so she calls them and we maybe have a solution for Turkey. If we can get some ID emailed to them then they can let us download the Turkish and Istanbul maps over the web. Now what we want is a hotel with some internet access. Another few phone calls to London get us nowhere but we do find a UK dealer online who has the required software and can supply to London in 24 hours. We order this and have it sent to Thomas at the Cluster Munitions Coalition, he can then send it on to us in Istanbul. At least we now have a plan to work to.

A hotel in Thessaloniki is found and all internet services are a mess. Mette is getting really angry and frustrated and of course takes it out on me. No problem, that’s what partners are for. We eventually find solutions to the worst problems and connect with some local students who are active in Amnesty. We meet for a beer at the White Tower and settle into a café for a good long chat about the problem, what is being done about it, what is the problem with Greece and what we need to bring a change. What I have found amazing in Greece is the incredible social justice conscience that most people seem to have. The problem is that they know nothing of the issue. We explain it from the ground up and they really want in.

The sensitive issue is defence and Turkey. There is fear in Greece of a war with Turkey and thus a reluctance to relinquish any weapons system that could help them. Many consider cluster bombs a force multiplier. The reality is that as Greece’s military capacity is about national defence any cluster use would be on Greek soil. When this fact sinks in everyone we speak to finds it an outrageous prospect. My biggest regret is that we are here for only a few days, but so many doors with the public, government and media are now open a follow up next year will really gain some traction.

One more print media interview and the journalist volunteers herself to get involved in any translations or other actions. Again outrage as she gains understanding of the issue. An email arrives that a member from a minor political party is bringing up the issue in parliament and praising the Ban Bus and the CMC for trying to bring about an end to these weapons. I’m going to miss Greece! With one day left here Mette heads east with Davor to meet and talk in Alexandroupolis and we stay to speak at the University in the morning. The word of mouth about what we are doing is working a treat.

The Ban Bus needed to become the stealth bus for our crossing of the border from Macedonia to Greece. As there is no love lost between the two we did not need to stir the pot any more. There is nothing like a customs despot to turn you back or mess you about for no reason other than belligerence. Don’t like the Ban Cluster Bomb message? Let’s search the whole car and keep them here for many hours. My whole adult life has been travelling and I have seen every nasty border crossing known to man and had some horrible experiences on them. Depending on what is at stake influences how I behave but I do have the ability to give as good as I get if there is nothing to loose. Now there is plenty to loose so I will curb my natural hatred of these officials and avoid party tricks like proving what I had for dinner all over their desk. Get the picture?

The road out of Skopje is interesting as we have the insane GPS. “Turn left, turn right, roll over and scratch my stomach”. Everything, except good directions. Back to asking locals at every traffic light.

Rolling along towards the border was a pleasant drive and we were still in mortal combat with the GPS. Could we get it to direct us in some other direction than off a cliff? The border loomed up and we took the last stop to fill up on cheaper fuel. With all of the signage off the Ban Bus we were back to being a VW Transporter. Both the Macedonian exit and Greek entrance were no trouble and we still had a few more miles to the coast. Natasha had told us about the coastal holiday towns that all but close up after the summer tourist season. Any hotel open now would be very cheap and that was the magic word for us, cheap.

The little town of Katarini was found, by maps and signs, despite the GPS yelling and screaming that we must go back, turn around, panic, there be monsters here. This place was a strip of sand with hotels and bars sprawled along the shore. I walked to the end of the street and felt like I was in the Gunfight at the OK Corral. All it needed was a tumble weed to complete the scene. Nothing, not a soul. Splitting up in different directions we went in search of a place to stay. Lots of hotel signs here but every door was locked till next summer.

I finally found a bar that was open and asked in there. The young guy running the place started to ring around but also couldn’t raise anyone. He did give me a few phone numbers though so I kept walking. Farther along I found another bar open and asked there. The very pretty girl smiled sweetly and ran away. I didn’t think I looked that rough! Another girl appeared and she spoke great English and yes she had rooms and only 30 euro a night. We were in.

We met in the bar at sunset and began to plan what was to come the following days in Athens. The most important event was a lunch being organised by the Norwegian Ambassador here. He was going to pull as many strings as possible to get a good representation from the Greek government for it. Not much more was known than it was on, so our attention turned to basic logistics and beer. The pretty girl came over and brought back four beers. She understood four beers ok. I noticed her fly was undone and said so. She smiled sweetly again, said thank you, and went away. When she came back for a second round or drinks her fly was still undone, I said so again, she said thank you again and went away. I didn’t want to start pointing at her crotch so left it at that.

A little restaurant was open and we ordered seafood. Nice and local and the guy serving had spent time in Melbourne. As Melbourne has a huge Greek population we seemed to be always finding an international connection here. When we tried leaving, two old guys asked us to join them for a drink. Con and John were cousins and Con had migrated to Melbourne in 1972. He was back for his annual pilgrimage and family catch up. They got a few Ouzos into us till we managed to get away as the morning would be the drive to Athens and the wonders of peak hour traffic there.

The morning was perfect and we got a walk in along the deserted beach. The Ban Bus was again getting covered in signs, this time in Greek. We were not confident of our Greek translations or even of which way up some of the signs should be but we bumbled on and hoped that we would make no offence with our efforts. I certainly didn’t want “Ban Cluster Bombs Now” to become “Buy Cluster Bombs Now” or something as messed up as that.

It took longer to get on the road than planned and we would probably end up driving into Athens during afternoon peak hour traffic. The miles rolled on by and we all worked on our various projects. Mette was doing the accounts, Daniel was cutting a film edit, Davor was driving and I was writing.

Its tough farming here but the one crop that does well are olives. Ancient olive groves sprawl up the hillsides in that shade of dusty green. To me this is the same scene as in Southern Lebanon. That was the location of the fighting between Hezbollah and Israel in 2006 and now those olives are filled with the deadly crop of cluster bombs. Greece has cluster bombs and claims that all of their military objectives are defensive. If that is so then the only possible Greek use of cluster bombs will be on their own soil. One firing of cluster bombs into farm land like this will create a home grown tragedy that will take years to clear. The reality is that there would never be one firing but barrage after barrage of them would be used, guaranteeing that Greece would be trashed forever. They may as well draw a new international border now and just give that part of their country away as it will be good for no Greek in the future if a war is fought this way.

The traffic intensifies as we move farther south. Athens is ahead and it’s past 4 pm. The freeway grinds to a paralysed halt. We did get a street map of Athens at the last fuel stop so at least we are not driving totally blind but have no real idea where we are heading because the one way systems and small roads aren’t marked on our map. Davor keeps hanging out the window trying to get directions from anyone he can. Nothing like realising that you need to exit now and the exit is four lanes away. The Ban Bus will be etched in many an Athenians mind as the van that cut everyone off to a symphony of horns. At least they got the chance to read the signs!

The Marina Hotel is a nice little place near Omonia Station. This is very central in Athens so will make getting around for us quite easy. Like all big cities, accommodation costs a fortune. Athens is no different. If you do manage to find a cheap hotel there is always a catch as to why it is cheap. Normally it’s due to being in either the Red Light district or junkie land. We scored junkie land. All quiet enough on the surface but as the sun tipped over the horizon the streets around us became a mecca for open street dealing and shooting up. Used needles were all over and junkies laid sprawled out in the gutters in their own vomit and piss. It’s very sad to see so many people in such a mess. There was the odd paramedic about and drug social worker but there was a notable absence of police. Apparently there is a pick up and drop off policy here that gets the junkies out of the expensive parts of town and dumps them in a few central locations like here. Not sure if that is true but there are certainly lots here.

One woman was romancing a pole while a guys head made a sickening thud as he collapsed with a needle in his arm while paramedics were working on another overdose case in his own pool of vomit. Junkies are not dangerous people, they are just sad people who have fallen through the cracks of society. The biggest danger here was stepping on a used needle so its not the place to wear sandals.

Lots on tomorrow so after checking in it was a data projector I was after. Unfortunately I was going to have to buy one as the one we had before was too expensive to get over here. It was an expense that annoyed me as we had one in Ireland in May. That projector finally made it to London but the only way to get it here in time was to hand carry.

I found an AV store that was open late and soon had cut a deal with them to get an ex display model cheaply. The lunch at the Ambassador’s house was very important and we needed to make a strong impact.

There is a secret on the streets of Athens and that is the many packs of roaming dogs. Athens has a unique policy for stray dogs, they like them and its illegal to kill one. It seems in Athens all creatures great and small get to live out a natural life. The dogs have a bit of natural selection going on too, as the dumb ones find their way under cars fairly quickly and the clever ones don’t. Dumb ones are normally aggressive and emotional, easy to get distracted by rolling wheels and other such objects of unimportance. Now the clever ones take the world in their stride and don’t sweat the little things.

If the city council finds a new dog on the streets it’s taken, neutered, vaccinated then let go again to pursue whatever dogs pursue that does not involve chasing cars or sex. They get a special council collar that tells of their health status. In winter the council even makes sure there is dog food around town and water. Dogs are just part of life in Athens. They can be found sleeping anywhere from historical monuments to doorways. They wait at traffic lights and cross when safe. Pet dogs on leashes see them and go nuts and they ignore them. I love the fact that the Athens council looked at what could be a ‘dog problem’ and turned it into another piece of the character of the city.

We took a taxi to the Norwegian Ambassador’s residence on Lycabettus Hill with plenty of time to set up the projector and my computer. Lycabettus Hill is the highest point in Athens and the residence was on top of a block of apartments and gave the most beautiful view around the city. Now I had my bearing. The other imposing spot was the Acropolis with the Parthenon perched across its summit. It really is impressive.

The Ambassador had invited members of a few NGO’s as well as representatives from the Departments of Defence, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and a Member of Parliament. This was the perfect forum to have a candid discussion about Greece’s reluctance to sign the cluster bomb treaty. Some pleasant chit chat was had on the roof admiring the view till lunch was served in the dining room. The Ambassador welcomed us and I responded with a little scene setting about the realities of cluster bombs. I had the projector set up shooting onto the wall and a montage of 200 images rolled over as I spoke about the field reality. The room was quiet as I told one story after the next hitting all the aspects from legacy to danger and poverty, to duration and history of the problem. All were silent and the MP was visibly shocked. I finished the photo show and suggested we eat. Some appetites were obviously now not there.

The representative from Foreign Affairs was very open and honest and explained the national line and agenda in relation to cluster bombs. He is just doing his job and has no latitude to waiver from the official line. The conversation then became more lively as it turned into more of a debate. He pushes the line that Greece would only use them in self defence and I say if you defend yourself with these you will destroy your own country. The MP sat and listened to the arguments ebb and flow till the lunch finished.

“Thank you for coming” she said, “I have learned much today and so much more needs to be done. I will take this to my parliamentary committee and I want you to come back to Greece and make a presentation to them. I think no one really knows much about this in Greece and we need to learn much more”.

Mette abandons us as she leaps on the back of a scooter with the guy from Amnesty and disappears. He will drop her at the printers to get flyers made for our public action tomorrow. Daniel and me walk outside after thanking our host’s and realise we have again no real idea where we are. We head towards the Acropolis. All roads seem to head there so it’s as good a destination as any.

The best part of our lunch was opening good dialogue with the Greeks. Seeds have now been planted and the doors are open for more discussion and I feel a good ally was created in the MP. The other great thing was the lunch itself. Magnificent!!

We had some media contacts and rang them to set up interviews and also checked the logistics for the next day. We had permission to have the Ban Bus outside a main metro station so we could get to many Greeks to address the problem of cluster bombs.

Athens at night is quite beautiful and the Acropolis is always dominant above us, all glowing and floodlit. We left our resident junkies behind and walked the streets around Plaka looking for a restaurant. Athens lives on the streets and there is no shortage of nice outdoor places to eat at. The day is digested and more plans hatched for the future.

Mette went with Davor early to Megaro Moussikis station early to get the van in position then went to pick up her printing. Daniel and I worked on more media then headed to the van. Another perfect sunny day in Athens but the wind was up and this would make getting our photo exhibition up difficult. We had printed 26 of my photos from around the world to use as a street exhibition. They are certainly eye catching, but a little hard to appreciate if they sailing by you at 75 kilometres an hour. We pick the windy side of the Ban Bus and place them there hoping the wind will keep them pinned to the van. It works and Mette arrives with the printing. We have flyers in Greek and start handing them out to anyone who comes or goes from the metro station.

Once people see the pictures they falter and take what we give them instantly. Many now start to ask what is going on and if they can sign a petition. We are in business and will be flat out for the rest of the day.

We have some local volunteers from Amnesty and they take to the flyer passing and petition signing. Most people are shocked by what we have to tell them and wonder why this isn’t an easy thing for Greece to sign on day one. The message is getting out. Not all are convinced though and some make a show of putting the flyer in the bin, ‘till one old lady goes nuts. She starts ranting how much she hates Turks and that there are not enough bombs for them. She gets really heated and goes into the metro. A few minutes later she is back and in full flight again. She has become a one woman protest against us! I wonder if she has a permit for her protest? I find her mildly amusing as she carries on. More people avoid her and take the information from us. That just fires her up more. She finally stomps off with an unhealthy level of blood pressure to look for a new audience for her tirade.

Dimitri and Sioux from Amnesty are really working the streets with us, as are a strong rotation of volunteers. The Norwegian Ambassador turns up with a few other embassy staff, slips on the T-shirt and work the streets as well. These people are great and it really is a case of different peoples coming together for a single goal.

A few years ago I photographed a project on ten years of peace in Bosnia. I took a lot of my photos from the end of the war then returned in 2005 to find the same locations and people. This became a perfect report card on how the place was progressing. I always thought of it as good, bad, happy and sad. The exhibition toured here in 2006 and made quite an impact. Many remembered it and a little collaboration from the Norwegian, Canadian and Australian embassies had pulled it all together. Cristina from the Norwegian embassy had been the point with help from the others. Zoe from the Canadian embassy now arrived and that little core of people might be able to do something again in the future on cluster bombs. The Bosnia project was exhibited in the Syntagma metro station. This is the main central station in Athens and would have been seen by literally millions of people. It was a perfect way to take the message to the masses. Already I am wondering if we can do it again with cluster bombs.

A TV crew arrived and shot a story then a few print journalists came, interviewed and went. The day had been a total success. As we began to pack up at 4 we had a call from a TV journalist called Filios Stangos. He was in Georgia when the fighting started and was nearly killed by the Russian cluster attack on Gori. A Dutch journalist was killed 5 metres from him and his driver was critically wounded. He wanted us to stay and wait for him as he wanted to meet. When he arrived he was a man who was still deeply affected by the experience. That question of why did he survive when others didn’t was rolling through his mind. His car had over 100 shrapnel hits to it and his driver was hit in the head and he had not a scratch. I know how he is feeling when you can’t get the sounds, smells and sight of such a thing out of your head. It’s a very dark place to be. I think he wanted to talk to people who understood how he was feeling and were happy to meet with him. I just wish the politicians would really listen to a man like this as he has a very intimate experience that is repeated by everyone who survives an attack like this. Eyewitnesses have undeniable power.

The Ban Bus packed up and headed home to junkie heaven and another great Greek feed under the Acropolis. Athens is my kind of living, casual, outdoors and friendly.

More local people who would hopefully become future campaigners wanted to meet us so we arranged to catch up at the Acropolis metro station and have lunch the next day. Another journalist wanted an interview and we invited her as well. The more we can discuss the issue and connect local people the better. The Ban Bus makes a great catalyst for this. Lida and Theo were fiends of Manolis who we met yesterday. Helen was a features writer for a weekly magazine. A lively discussion began that was part interview but mostly great conversation. Ideas were springing forth from all as well as more connections for other people, organisation and universities. This is networking, good food, good wine and great conversation.

Helen was really fired up about the issue and wants to do much more in the future so another good media contact has been made. That wonderful six degrees of separation can overcome most things. Everyone knows someone who could connect us somehow to something or someone we need. Networking at its best!

One of my biggest regrets of a Ban Bus is that we race in stir up interest in the issue then run away. I’d so like to have the time to work with local campaigners more for longer periods and really consolidate the work and connections. Soon we will be in Thessaloniki then on to Istanbul. I do know I want to come back here and really spend some time in Greece and Turkey helping to build a stronger campaign. They are key countries regionally and so many of their problems and fears are linked. A joined regional campaign would be useful here.

I had an email from Jan Erik who is in Georgia and he thinks that I could get into the cluster struck areas in Georgia now without too much risk. I am very keen to do this but not sure if this is possible time wise. I’ll start checking some flights and see if I can’t dash down there for 3 or so days and shoot the area then out again.

MEDIA RELEASE

Greece is being urged to join the global fight to help save innocent lives, with the arrival in the country of The Ban Bus.

Setting out from Belgrade six days ago, The Ban Bus will travel 10 thousand kilometres through Europe and arrive in Oslo to coincide with the signing of the world’s most significant disarmament and humanitarian treaty in more than a decade, in December. Already the team on board has met with Cluster Munition survivors and witnessed the devastating effects these weapons have had on their lives.

The Convention on Cluster Munitions will outlaw these horrific weapons and ultimately reduce the suffering of innocent men, women and children.

Once fired, cluster bombs break open in flight and spray numerous smaller submunitions, or bomblets, making them highly inaccurate. Even civilians not killed or maimed in the attack are still at risk from cluster bombs, because in many cases the submunitions fail to detonate and explode later when they are accidently disturbed.

It’s estimated one third of the world’s cluster bomb victims are children, but despite this the government of Greece is yet to endorse the treaty.

So far more than 100 of the world’s governments have agreed to sign the treaty in December, but even as The Ban Bus rolls into Athens, the Greek government is maintaining an unwillingness to be a world leader on this vital issue.

“We have found that many governments have been willing to listen to their populations on this, some countries that wouldn’t support the ban initially are now supporters purely because of public pressure and hopefully our visit to Greece will show the politicians here that people want them to step-up and help save innocent lives,” says Ban Bus co-founder, John Rodsted.

As a veteran photojournalist and long time campaigner, John Rodsted has seen the horror of these weapons across the globe, “It makes me angry that a handful of governments are putting this weapon ahead of the lives of ordinary people, the government of Greece has a chance to make the world a safer place for innocent men women and children and they need to do the right thing now.”

John’s partner on this trip, Mette Eliseussen, has also seen the effects of these weapons on the ground, “Cluster bombs don’t discriminate, they kill and maim the innocent wherever they’re used, many governments are now saying enough is enough and Greece needs to join that long list of nations.”

“This isn’t about defending ourselves, because as a weapon cluster bombs aren’t particularly effective, it’s been proved around the world that they often do more harm to civilians than military targets, so why would the government even want to keep them in our country’s arsenal?” says Dimitros Botsos, Director of Amnesty International Greece.

MEDIA OPPORTUNITIES

- Friday 1pm: Media Conference and Ban Bus Public Street Action: Megaron Mousikis

CONTACTS:

In Greece and on the bus: Daniel Barty, +381 61 233 1169, media (at) thebanbus.org

In Greece: Dimitros Botsos, Amnesty International Greece, +3069 365 05543, director (at) amnesty.org.gr

In London: Natalie Curtis, Cluster Munition Coalition: +44 (0) 20 7820 0222 or + 44 (0) 7515 575174, Natalie (at) stopclustermunitions.org

Media advisory

Epic expedition arrives in Athens

WHAT: Visit to Greece by The Ban Bus: An eight-week campaign trail through Europe to convince all governments to sign a groundbreaking treaty banning cluster bombs, in Oslo on December 3rd 2008. Beginning in Serbia and ending at the signing ceremony in Norway, the Ban Bus will rally public support for the treaty and turn the eyes of the world on governments – including Greece - who are resisting putting pen to paper and curbing the suffering of millions.

Using sound, film and photo recording equipment, the Ban Bus will be recording its journey, collecting stories and generating a media storm in a bid to get every government to do the right thing and sign the treaty.

WHEN: Friday 10th October: 1 pm: High impact photo and filming opportunity and Official Media Conference: Following the media conference campaigners and pedestrians will take part in a “chalking”. This unique event involves people laying on the ground and having their body outlines traced. Each of these bodies represents the innocent people killed or maimed by cluster bombs every year and will send a clear message to the political leaders of Greece.

WHERE: Photo and filming opportunity: Athens Ban Bus Media Conference and Public Action take place at Megaron Mousikis (do we have additional location detail or is this enough???)

WHO:

· Ban Bus campaigners on the bus:

John Rodsted: Nobel-prize winning photographer and film maker with twenty years experience documenting cluster bombs worldwide

Mette Eliseussen: Journalist and founder of Save the Children Afghanistan .

Daniel Barty: Award-winning Journalist and campaigner who has worked with survivors in Asia

Dimitros Botsos, Director Amnesty International Greece

CONTACT:

In Greece and on the bus: Daniel Barty, +381 (0)61 233 1169, media (at) thebanbus.org

In London: Natalie Curtis, Cluster Munition Coalition: +44 (0)20 7820 0222 or + 44 (0) 7515 575174, Natalie (at) stopclustermunitions.org